Rubber Room Stampin'

TUESDAY'S TOOL: CRYSTAL EFFECTS

I LOVE CRYSTAL EFFECTS!  It's always on my work table along with my Stampin' Mist and Stampin' Scrub.  But the first time I used it I had no clue "what" or why".  Have you used it before?

If not, you really need to!  Important information:  #101055, p. 192, 2009-2010 Idea Book & Catalog

Some functions and features:

• It gives a high gloss finish to any image
• Creates fun 3-D effects
• It has its own applicator tip
• It is water based for quick and easy cleanup
• It dries completely within 1 hour depending upon how thickly it is applied.
• Container size: 2 oz

Quick Tricks:

• Add a drop or two of a Classic Ink Refill to a little puddle of Crystal Effects, and you'll have a high-gloss colored finish.
• Works great as an adhesive to attach buttons and other heavier embellishments such as bows.
• You can add a three-dimensional effect to your projects with Crystal Effects.  Apply a thick line of CE (Crystal Effects) to the outline of your stamped image.  After the line has dried, add a thinner coat of CE to the inside area of what was outlined.

FYI:

• Crystal Effects can be used with any stamped image that has been colored with any medium:  watercolors, markers, Stampin' Pastels, stamp pads.
• Do not shake Crystal Effects.  That will cause bubbles that will show up in your work.
• Recap after using to prevent the tip from drying out and clogging.  HOWEVER, the tip probably will clog, so have a hat pin or straightened out paper clip handy for pushing down through the tip to unclog it. 
• For best results, use Crystal Effects within one year of purchase.  I always put the date on my bottle when I open it.  Yes, I've had one container turn to thick yellow goo which had to be thrown away.

So, here are some samples:

Below:  I outlined the middle package, let it sit for about 5 minutes, and then filled the center with a thinner layer of CE.

With the little applicator tip, I applied CE to the candle flames as well as the flowers.

Above:  CE was applied to the left door, the heart on the right door, and the clouds.

The fruits in the next 4 cards are embellished with CE (1 above, 3 below)

Below:  Beer steins are each covered with CE. 

Below:  the cupcake frosting is covered with a thin layer of Crystal Effects.

 

Below: I received this card in our Inkertoys swap last Thursday.  Made by Sherry.  The tulips are coated with CE.

And as I was cleaning in my Country Loft today, I came upon the cards from a class I led last year, using the Tart & Tangy Stamp Set.  Each piece of fruit is covered with Crystal Effects.

As you can see, you can use Crystal Effects in so many places.   I didn't do this in any of the samples, but you can also sprinkle Dazzling Diamonds Glitter to freshly applied Crystal Effects for long lasting glitter.  It will dry right into the CE.

If you're ready to order some Crystal Effects and don't have your own Stampin' Up! demonstrator, I'm here to help you.  Either place your own order via my OnLine Store on my SU! website.  Click the button on the top right of this blog.  OR, send me an email and I'll gladly place your order for you.

See you tomorrow I hope.

TUTORIAL: TUESDAY'S TOOL: MAKING A RECTANGLE WITH THE SCALLOP TRIM BORDER PUNCH

So, you want to successfully make a rectangle background layer using the Scallop Trim Border Punch!  OK, let's get going.......

I'm going to be referring to my blog post on February 3, 2010 for some measurements--they're also copy/pasted below:

For the Scallop Trim Border and Corner punches:

• 4 3/4" makes a square that has 10 scallops along each side
• 4 1/4" makes a square that has 9 scallops on each side
• 3 13/16" (just a hair bigger than 3 3/4") makes a square that has 8 scallops along each side. This is the size that fits perfectly into the guide that is printed on the Scallop Trim Border Punch and therefore makes this a great size to practice on. Once you get this size down, it will be easier to branch-off and make your squares smaller or larger.
• 3 1/4" makes a square than has 7 scallops along each side.
• 2 7/8" makes a square that has 6 scallops on each side
• 2 3/8" makes a square that has 5 scallops on each side
• smallest square begins with a square that is 1 15/16" and uses only the corner punch.

For practice, it's not a bad idea to cut out each of those squares above.  Then, punch the corners of your square first.  (Rectangle will come as soon as I'm sure I have the square down pat.)  The first corner is easy.  For subsequent corners just be sure you are sitting in the guide rather than laying above it.  I will assure you right now---this isn't easy!  I have blown the smallest three in a row, and then the next three larger ones, 3-13/16", 4-1/4" and 4-3/4" worked just fine.  The important thing is to be sure you are lined up with the scallop diagrams on the punch itself.  Then persevere!  Practice on scraps for starters! 

After doing the corners with the punch right side up, I recommend doing the sides with the punch upside down.

Now to the rectangle:  I've made a 4-3/4" x 3-13/16" rectangle (real red) and a 3-13/16" x 2-7/8" rectangle (pixie pink) an a 2-7/8" x 4-1/4" rectangle (orchid opulence).

 

Finally, here are 3 completed rectangles.  If you look closely, you won't see perfection.  :)  Practice is what it's going to take.  But it's worth it when you use the technique on a card.

Here are a few samples using either the punched square or punched rectangle.  These are swap cards I received at Leadership Training in Phoenix in January.

<--Created by Catherine Harwood, FL

Below: created by Carol Mathews of Truto, Nova Scotia, Canada

Above:  created by 'unknown' unfortunately.

Are YOU ready to go punch some Scallop Trimmed squares or rectangles now?  Go for it.  Share your results with all of us.  Email (blythe@stampinwithblythe.com) me a photo of your finished card and I'll gladly post it here on my blog.

Wednesday I'll be having a class here in my home so you can look for our fun cards a few days later.  Hint: our main tool will be the Extra Large Two-Step Bird punch.  Wait till you see how versatile this punch can be.  Have you made anything, traditional or out-of-the-box using this punch?  Why not share it with us.  Send me an email with a photo of your project and I'll gladly post it for all to see.

Thanks for stopping by and I'll see you tomorrow.

TUESDAY'S TOOL (on Wednesday): NEW CORNER & STRAIGHT EDGE PUNCHES--HOW TO ALIGN THEM! Second, the PINKING HEARTS BORDER & CORNER PUNCHES

Did you notice those cute little hearts along the border of the Pinking Hearts Border and Corner punches?  Well, I didn't.  But I DID when I received this card at Leadership:

Sometimes is does take a brick to get my attention!

(Created by Susan Campfield)

I've been watching, since Leadership, which really pretty much coincided with the launch of the 2010 Occasions Mini Catalog, for a clue on how to fully utilize these clever newly styled (for Stampin' Up!) punches, like how to punch a perfect square or rectangle every time.

So now, here are my tips on how to make background squares and rectangles out of the Pinking Hearts Border and Corner punches.

My primary source for how to have some fun with these punches is Gretchen Barron, a Stampin' Up! demonstrator from Illinois.  We met online via 2 Stampin' Up! demonstrator email lists and then in person last year at Stampin' Up!'s annual Convention in Salt Lake City.  I wouldn't mind having part of her talent when I grow up.

For starters:

• Decide for yourself whether you want to use these punches right side up or upside down.  It's a personal preference.
• Line up the points of the Pinking edge, not the hearts.
• Accurate measuring is very important. The little pinking points are so small and there is so much detail in this punch that you need to be very accurate and consistent with your measurements.

Everyone will use a different cutting method for this punch--do what's comfortable for you.  Start with specifically sized squares.  These sizes were worked out by Gretchen.  Each measurement is for a SQUARE.

• 2 7/8"
• 3 1/4"
• 3 5/8"
• 4"
• 4 3/8"
• 4 3/4"

Each size square increases or decreases by 3/8" so you can easily make your squares and rectangles as small or large as you wish but the sizes above will fit a standard 4-1/4" x 5-1/2" card.

Let's get punching now.  Holding the Pinking Hearts Border and Corner punch upside down or right side up, punch the corners first and then line up the pinking points to cut the sides,this time using the punch upside down so you can see from the bottom how the paper and metal line up.

Cut the corners first and then line up the pinking points to cut the sides, using the punch upside down so you can see from the bottom how the paper and metal line up.

Now, if you'd like to make rectangles simply combine two of the measurements. E.g., combine 3 1/4" with 4 3/8".  Then follow the same procedure.

TIP:  Make a set of templates for the Pinking Hearts Border and Corner punches., according to the sizes given above.  Store them in a cello sleeve, an empty stamp set box, or a 6" x 6" scrapbook page protector.  Then you can pull them out when you're ready to made a card.

Here are Gretchen's templates sizes for the Scallop Trim Border and Corner punches:

• 4 3/4" makes a square that has 10 scallops along each side
• 4 1/4" makes a square that has 9 scallops on each side
• 3 13/16" (just a hair bigger than 3 3/4") makes a square that has 8 scallops along each side. This is the size that fits perfectly into the guide that is printed on the Scallop Trim Border Punch and therefore makes this a great size to practice on. Once you get this size down, it will be easier to branch-off and make your squares smaller or larger.
• 3 1/4" makes a square than has 7 scallops along each side.
• 2 7/8" makes a square that has 6 scallops on each side
• 2 3/8" makes a square that has 5 scallops on each side
• smallest square begins with a square that is 1 15/16" and uses only the corner punch.

Now go have some creative fun!

Tomorrow: a look a my templates.  I'm making them this morning:  doing as I suggested that you do!!!!  And then I'll get off of these fun, creative, fascinating punches for a while.  :)

TUESDAY'S TOOL: NEW CORNER & STRAIGHT EDGE PUNCHES--HOW TO ALIGN THEM! First, the SCALLOP TRIM BORDER & CORNER PUNCHES

I've seen lots of cards made with the new Pinking Hearts Border and Corner and Scallop Trim Border and Corner punches where there is a stamped layer set upon a tidily punched square or rectangle.  In a voice that's accompanied by a scratching of my head I kept saying "HOW DO THEY DO THAT?"  Well, now I know and so will you in just a few moments. 

First though:  where do you get them???  They're not in Stampin' Up!'s regular 2009-2010 Idea Book & Catalog.  The Pinking Hearts Border and Corner and Scallop Trim Corner punches are in the 2010 Occasions Mini Catalog. The Scallop Trim Border punch is in the Sale-a-Bration catalog and, as are all things Sale-a-Bration, is FREE!  Love having a punch to choose from for Sale-a-Bration!

Today I'll share with you the Scallop Trim Border and Corner punches.  It is so cool to watch your square or rectangle develop.  Go get a large scrap of cardstock, at least 5" x 5", any color.  But please make it cardstock.  And DO work along with this tutorial to see just how logical and easy this is!

Notice on the front of the Scallop Trim Corner punch (where you slip the cardstock in) that there is a guard/guide on the left and the right.  Unlike other punches, you can also slide your cardstock over these guards.  There's a reason but please wait to find it out.

You'll need a personal paper cutter, the Scallop Trim Border and Corner punches and your cardstock.

* STEP 1: Start with the Scallop Trim Corner punch and insert the cardstock using the corner guides.  Punch the corner.

* STEP 2: Align the corner with the wing template on the straight edge punch. (below)

* STEP 3: Continue cutting the straight edge to the desired length still allowing space for the corner cut. (below)

* STEP 4: This is the cool part, for me at least:  Insert Scallop Trim Corner punch and align it with existing cuts to make the second corner cut.  This is where you just slide the cardstock right up and over the corner guides/guards.  (below)

 

* STEP 5: Take your paper cutter and cut a straight edge making sure your card stock is square in the cutter.

 

* STEP 6:  Again align the corner with the wing template on the Scallop Trim Border punch and continue cutting the card stock to the desired width. (below)

* STEP 7: Punch the third corner and then cut the last straight edge.

 

* STEP 8: Cut the fourth corner and then finish the last straight edge:  Hold the Scallop Trim Border punch upside down (my photo shows it right side up) to align the design properly.   (You may need to overlap some of the previous cuts to finish it off.)

You'll need to finish this cutting process before you cut your other layers in order to get the proper layering dimensions.

To be honest, you're going to have to try this several times until you get it just right----at least I did.  You can always save those pieces that aren't perfect and place embellishments over the 'messed up' areas.  It took me 5 attempts to get a 'perfect rectangle!

Here's a swap card sample I received at Leadership Training earlier in January.  It was created by Charity Wright.

Tomorrow I'll give you tips on the new Pinking Hearts Border and Corner punches.

Hopefully now you're ready to either pull out the punches you've already purchased OR you'll be anxious to purchase them for your own creations.  Such fun!!!

And yes, I still have the laryngitis.  It's so quiet at our home these days!  :)

HOW DO YOU CLEAN *YOUR* STAMPS???

......And I know it's not Tuesday.  It's Wednesday.  I'm just a day late! :)  Forgive me!......

Over the years I have progressed from a damp paper towel or wash cloth on a plate to a diaper wipe on a plate to a "corner edging hairy painting brush" to my long time favorite: Stampin' Up!'s Stampin' Scrub.  And this is definitely the one that I've stuck with ever since it came out, hmmmmmm, how many years ago? 

Why do I like it?  It's tidy, compact and efficient.  If you haven't experienced the Stampin' Scrub yet here at the nitty gritty details:

Stampin' Scrub, 102642, pg. 189 Spring-Summer 2009 IBC, $16.95 (US). Catalog description: "Dual-sided tray contains replaceable black fiber pads. Clean stamp on one side, blot dry on the other. Sized to fit even our largest stamps. Each pad is approximately 7" X 5-3/4". 

 
I have to admit that I don't clean my background stamps on the Stampin' Scrub.  There's just not enough wiggle room for me so I take them into to kitchen sink and run water over the image side and the ink just runs off.  If I've used Craft (or pigment) ink, I'll use an old washcloth or towel or even toothbrush to get into the nooks and crannies.

When the Stampin' Scrub is opened up flat, near the opening tabs on each side is a little icon: an umbrella for the dry side and rain drops for the wet side.  I've also used a metallic marker to write 'dry' and 'wet', with an arrow in the appropriate direction, on the inside spine for a quicker i.d. of the wet and dry sides.

To clean your stamps, spritz the pad, an area just a bit larger than the stamp you're cleaning, with Stampin' Mist (102394, p. 189, $4.50).  Stampin' Mist is a lightly scented spray that both cleans and conditions your stamps.  I clean each of my stamps immediately after use, especially when using Basic Black, Gray, or Brown.  Those colors will stain your stamps--they won't harm them, just stain them.

It's best to 'dab'up and down with your stamps to clean them on the wet side.  Then do the same on the dry side and put them back in their box.  Rubbing them back and forth can cause the rubber to separate from the spongy layer or even peel away from the wood block if you're real aggressive and you wouldn't like that very much.  I must admit I've done that over the years and have had no problems except with smaller, more detailed stamped.  But I'm a 'dabber' now.  :)

To clean your pads, just remove them from the case and take them to a sink.  I sometimes use a table knife to pry them out rather than my finger or fingernail.  Put a drop of your dish washing liquid on the pad and wash it like you would your hair:  back and forth with your fingertips/nails.  The scrubbing pad gets clean, and if you have ink on your fingertips, they get clean as well.  Then rinse the pad under running water till it runs clear of both color and soap.  Then just set them in your dish rack for several hours or over night.  If you do this in the evening you'll be ready to go, with dry pads, in the morning.

If you use StazOn ink on your stamps you should use StazOn cleaner (109196, p. 190, $4.95) directly on your stamp.  StazOn stamp cleaner is specially formulated to clean and condition stamps after use with StazOn ink--it's used to prevent staining that can come from solvent inks.  It would also work with Basic Black, Gray or Brown.  It has a sponge applicator at the top of the bottle.  Then dab your stamp first on the wet side and then on the dry side of your Stampin' Scrub.

Be sure not to use the Stampin' Scrub right next to your finished stamped project.  If you rub your stamp back and forth it will surely spray on your project, just like a toothbrush.  If you dab dab dab, however, that shouldn't be a problem.  Still, move the Scrub about 12" away.

Time for you to get your Stampin' Scrub???  Or do you need a second one to use while your dirty (now clean) one is drying?  Just contact me or go to my Stampin' Up! website and order one online.

See you soon,

TUESDAY'S TOOL: CROP-A-DILE

If you have a Crop-a-Dile, affectionately known as the CAD, how often do you use it?  All the time? Some of the time?  None of the time?  It might look rather prehistoric but it is so soft, gentle, and efficient.  I truly love mine.  Statistics:  p. 184 (of the Fall/Winter Stampin' Up! Idea Book & Catalog), #108362, $29.95 (US)

What on earth do you do with this thing?  This awesome tool punches 2 sizes of holes, sets eyelets, and even embosses! And when you are punching holes, you can set the depth so that you get even spacing from the edge to your hole.

3/16 eyelet- A+1
1/8  eyelet- C+3
1/8 round snap- B+2
flat setter for all over-sized misc, square shaped metal embellishments and snaps- D+4

I guess this picture really does make it look prehistoric!  But it sure isn't.  What can you punch with it?  This list is only a few of the items you can punch with the CAD:

• leather
• cardstock
• paper
• cardboard
• belts
• laminate chips
• chip board
• tin
• CD or plastic
• heavy paper coasters
• dog collars
• metal tags
• scrapbook covers (adding hodgepodge hardware)
• denim or other heavy fabrics
• small metal buckets
• thin wood ornaments/boxes
• backpack straps

Fun techniques you can perform with the CAD:

Dry Embossing –
Using Setting A-1 lightly press on cardstock without eyelet and make a “dry impression of a circle or dot”.  See 'aligning' below for making a straight line of embossed dots/circles.

Aligning:
Using the depth gauge you can align all of your holes, dots, and eyelets etc in an evenly spaced straight line. Set the depth gauge to your desired depth. Slide paper in until it touches the gauge, and then press down on the lever making your hole or impression.  Move the tool over until the black square barely touches the previous hole and then press again; repeat until you have several holes in an evenly spaced straight line.

Warning when inserting eyelets: Be sure the eyelet is aligned with the top and base before pressing or you will smash your eyelet.  The widest part of eyelet goes to the top, skinny part or stem of eyelet goes towards the base.  Think of an eyelet as a flower. The flower goes up to the top, while the stem goes down to the base.

So now, this should get your CAD off your shelf or out of your drawer and into your hand, ready to use on your next creation.  Please send me photos of your cards, boxes, or whatevers and I'll gladly post them on my blog for 'the world' to see! 

Leadership begins tomorrow so I'll be having lots of samples to share with you.  Stay tuned.